We got up early today in order to switch hostels before our tour. We found a comprable place for eight bucks less so we made the move. We were in a tourist group of Americans, Mexicans, Italians, and Swedes for the day. We left at about 9:30 for the village of Chamula outside of San Cristobal.

Chiapas has about 4 million people, 1 million of whom are indigenous Mayans. Within this group, nine different languages are spoken. The town of Chamula probably had about 9 thousand people. Our guide was wonderful, but the historian in me is wary of accepting his explanation of things as truth. It is not good to rely on one source for cultural information. He lectured us as we walked pass family compounds on the religion of Chamulans. According to him, Chamulans have never really bought into catholicism. The cross was omnipresent in the town, but Chamulans attach traditional meanings to it. Even the church, although filled with catholic relics, is interpreted by the people in a traditional way. For example, he told us that the cross actually represents the Mayan story of the Ceiba tree...the Ceiba tree lifted the sky from the earth to create the world as we know it today. I am not going to go into the details, but it was fascinating.

No one has asked me to buy a hammock, but the little kids surrounded us in the plaza outside the church at Chamula. They asked for "uno peso" over and over and over again. A cute little boy in ragged clothes actually started to fake cry, and I could not help but laugh. Their poverty is not funny , but the fake crying was really comical to me. I guess I have a black heart.

The tour ended with a visit to a home in a neighboring village. We saw weaving, tortilla making, and drank a shot of posh (liquor made from sugar cane...kind of Jaegermeisterish). It was a good tour. Kathy and I napped from 3 till 5.

The elections ended today with voting. Long lines have formed around the city, and according to Mexicans we have talked to, it seems that turnout will be high. The indigenous people are heavily manipulated and herded. Parties will give out a ton of cement bricks - valuable capital in the little villages - weeks before the voting, and remind the villagers of the gift up until the election.

I am not too informed on Mexican politics, but I do know that the elections have ruined the night life in San Cristobal. No one is allowed to sell alcohol for 2 days leading up to the election (la ley de seca), so all the clubs and bars here are closed. Kathy and I have decided to leave for the beach on Tuesday so that we can experience the nightlife tomorrow. Here is what I ate today: bread for breakfast, trail mix, a black corn tortilla filled with queso and pumpkin seed in the house of the villager, one slice of pizza, and after the nap I had two dinners (tacos suaves and carne asada). Churros for desert.

We will take it easy tonight, tour the rest of San Cristobal tomorrow, maybe take an eco tour on Tuesday, and take a night bus for the beach on Tuesday.

John